12 Essential Questions to ask before hiring a Cabinet Painter
Redoing your cabinets is one of the most impactful ways to transform your home, but it’s also a highly technical job. Unlike painting a wall, cabinet painting requires industrial-grade prep and specific coatings to withstand daily grease, steam, and physical contact.
To ensure you get a factory-quality finish that lasts several years rather than a "DIY look" that peels in six months, you need to vet a painter as a finisher, not just a house painter. Here are the top 12 critical questions you should ask before painting your cabinets.
The Vetting Phase (Credibility & Trust)
Can you provide current proof of both general liability and workers' compensation insurance?
Why ask this: It protects you if a worker is injured in your home or if a chemical spill causes significant damage to your floors or countertops. Never hire an uninsured interior painter.
Who will be the dedicated project manager, and how will they communicate with me?
Why ask this: You should have a single point of contact. Knowing there is an accountable supervisor increases the likelihood that the scope of work is followed.
Do you offer a warranty on your workmanship, what does it specifically cover, and for how long?
Why ask this: The standard industry warranty is often 2 years on labor and workmanship (e.g., paint peeling due to improper prep). This is not a warranty against normal wear and tear.
Can I see photos of your work or speak with a recent reference?
Why it matters: You want to see "close-up" shots of the finish around the hinges and edges. If the finish looks grainy or "orange-peeled" in photos, it will look worse in person.
What is your specific process for the final walkthrough and resolving "punch list" items before final payment?
Why ask this: It’s important to ensure they have a formal walkthrough or acceptance process before handing over the final check. You need to know their process for marking imperfections (using blue tape is common) and their timeline for fixing those "punch list" items (missed spots, drips on trim, uneven coverage).
The Scope & Process Phase (Avoiding Mistakes)
What is your specific process for surface preparation?
Why it matters: Proper prep is 90% of the job. You want to hear that they will remove all hardware, clean the surfaces with a heavy-duty degreaser (like TSP), and sand the wood to ensure the new coating bonds correctly.
Do you remove the hinges or just tape over them?
Why it matters: Taping over hinges is the hallmark of a "budget" job. It leads to paint cracking at the hinge line and looks messy. All doors, drawer fronts, and hardware should be removed before starting any work.
Do you use a primer, and if so, which one?
Why it matters: Standard wall primers won't work. For cabinets (especially oak or cherry), they should use a stain-blocking primer (like a high-quality shellac or solvent-based primer) to prevent wood tannins from bleeding through the paint later.
What type of paint/coating do you use?
Why it matters: You aren't looking for "latex" or "acrylic" wall paint. Professional cabinet painters typically use KCMA-rated (Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association) coatings, such as:
High-end water-borne alkyds (like Benjamin Moore Cabinet Coat or SW Emerald Urethane)
2K polyurethanes (extremely durable) (like Milesi or Renner)
The Logistics & Project Phase (Ensuring Accuracy)
How long will my kitchen be out of commission?
Why it matters: A professional job usually takes 4 to 7 business days. If they say they can do it in two days, they are likely skipping crucial drying and sanding steps between coats.
Will the cabinet 'boxes' (frames) be sprayed or brushed/rolled?
Why it matters: For a factory-smooth finish, the doors and drawer fronts should be sprayed. Many painters spray the doors at their shop but brush the frames in your kitchen. This creates a texture mismatch. You want a contractor who builds a plastic "zip-wall" booth in your kitchen to spray the frames on-site.
How do you handle dust and fume containment?
Why it matters: Since they will be spraying inside your home, they should use professional masking (plastic sheeting) and HEPA filtration or exhaust fans to keep your home breathable and prevent overspray from landing on your furniture.
Have more questions or ready to set up an estimate appointment?
Text or call David: 512-952-9427
